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When curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. But, nestled high among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has made the family completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that price.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary achievement.